Thursday, July 22, 2010

Day 52 Noonamah to Darwin!!!


We really didn't sleep too well last night... a group of people staying next door to us were up all night drinking and drugging directly outside our room. They were extremely intoxicated, but were pretty sheepish when we emerged at 5.30am in extremely foul moods.

None-the-less, it was pack up, eat breakfast, and start peddling... the weather is humid, and we could tell that it was going to be a hot day.


However, with the end in sight, even the lack of sleep was not a factor for us. Riding was simply a joy! Heavy traffic was not much of an issue as we had significantly wider shoulders to ride on, and then about halfway in there was a bicycle path that lead all the way into Darwin! We were even able to stop and have an iced coffee at a service station... something that has not been possible for the last 7 weeks, as there have been no services or ammenities anywhere between any of our stopping points.
It was an emotional morning for me arriving in Darwin. I'm at a loss for words trying to describe what it felt like... but it was a VERY good feeling!!! Jason was on hand to greet us and to document our arrival. We road on a few more kilometers to the waterfront where we dipped our wheels into the ocean. Its been 3000+ Kilometers since we initially dipped our wheels into the Southern Ocean.
We had to negotiate our way across a muddy tidal flat to actually get to the water, and with our loaded bikes it was no easy task!
One of my favorite sayings is "the person who begins a journey is not the same person that finishes the journey"... this has proved to be very true for me on this trip in particular. I can honestly say that today it was worth every peddle stroke, every frustrating moment, every miserable fly-infested campsite, every headwind, every overwhelmingly isolated moment, to arrive at this point in time at this point in my life.










Day 51 Adelaide River to Noonamah

We were on the road again in the pre-dawn light to avoid as much of the heat as possible. Riding was fairly pleasant until traffic started picking up... About 3 hours in, I was pulled over by a car that stopped up ahead of me on the shoulder.

I had a good rhythm going, so it was a bit annoying to have to stop and speak with someone. However, this gentleman was relaying a message from Dave, saying that he was in Adelaide river looking for us and would keep riding until he caught up with us. I do appreciate the kindness and consideration that so many motorists have shown us on this trip, and this situation was another reminder not to become too caught up in the "Us vs. Them" mindset.

This said, I did have a very close call with a road construction 3-trailer road-train that literally swerved at me to force me off the road! I would love the opportunity to discuss that situation with that driver...

Arriving at Noonamah we were shown to a brand new donger-style room. So brand-new in fact, that there were workmen still painting in several adjacent rooms. The owner was kind enough to let us store our bikes in one of the unfinished rooms, as our room was very small.

Dave arrived a few hours later, and managed to talk the owner into letting him sleep with our stored bikes for free. Jason made an appearance shortly thereafter, and we all enjoyed another evening of clever conversation, lubricated with a few beers! Tomorrow is the BIG DAY....

Day 50 Pine Creek to Adelaide River

On the way out of town we stopped to have a photo next to a massive termite mound. Its only one of the millions of termite mounds that we've seen over the past several weeks, but I thought we really needed to document them as they truly are remarkable. Shortly thereafter, Andrew spotted a pair of wild asses off in the bush, and I managed to get a quick snapshot of them.

Thank God for tailwinds again today! We rode in hills (real hills) for most of the day and it would have been a rough 70+ miles if we had also had to fight the wind! We again had several close calls with vehicles- the local road-train construction truckies are a far cry from the professional long haul truckies we've come to know and respect. The heavy traffic was compounded by a lot of road constructions beginning at Hayes Creek. Hayes Creek was a nice, clean little town and I'd have enjoyed spending a little time there... next time.

We Stopped to rest and hydrate several times, but we still managed to roll into Adelaide River by 3.30pm. Just outside of town a vehicle was hailing us, and of course my attitude was not very ambassadorial... I was delighted however that the driver turned out to be a friend, Jason Scheepers! He had driven down from Darwin after work to meet up with us; fantastic!

Along with his co-worker Patrice, Jason joined us in the pub for a couple beers and a nice bite to eat... It was a very long day, and the beer and good company really helped to blunt the edge of it!

Jason and Patrice had to get back to Darwin right after supper, so Andrew and I set to the tasks of preparing to ride in the morning. It is only around 40 mile to Noonamah tomorrow, and I'm really hoping its an easy ride...
















Day 49 katherine to Pine Creek

We saw a LOT of kangaroos of all sizes this morning scampering across the road. With a STRONG tailwind we made really good time on our 55+ mile ride today, stopping only a couple times for a breather. The heat was a cause for concern and we made an effort to continually refer to our water bottles throughout the ride.

Traffic was very heavy and we were forced off to the road over a dozen times... which doesn't really sound like big deal until you consider that there is nothing but large loose rock, broken glass, and sharp hazards of all types littered over an uneven surface. Add a heavy, somewhat unstable touring bike to this and you have a recipe for disaster. I had a very close encounter with an "Adventure Tours" bus that still makes me shutter. The drivers are getting significantly more aggressive the closer we get to Darwin, and our attitudes are becoming a lot more "Us vs. Them".

Pine Creek is a well-kept little town with a pleasant hotel and cafe... of course we are not staying there. We are instead in a "donger" across the road. We have decided to ride through Hayes Creek and on to Adelaide River tomorrow, and that of course shortens the ride by an entire day.



Day 48 Katherine

Had a very pleasant rest day... mostly napping and taking care of the mundane details, such as laundry, to be ready to leave tomorrow morning.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Day 47 Mataranka to Katherine




We were up at 5.30 today, and out the door well before dawn... however we were delayed after a bird crapped all over Andrews helmet (and head!). When he went back into the room to clean up, he returned to find another bird had soiled his bike seat!

So after a few small delays we were off and riding (again together), and we immediately started spotting wildlife... numerous kangaroos, a black-headed python (deceased), and what I thought was a small black bull staring at us as we approached. The "bull" turned out to be a massive, bristly, black wild pig! We slowed a bit not wanting to threaten it, but preparing to peddle like hell if it charged. Fortunately, it decided to turn and go...immediately disappearing into the tall grass.

There has been a slow but noticeable change in the ecosystem the past several days, and we are now firmly in the lower tropics. There are tree everywhere, lots of grass, and other mysterious plants, many with beautiful flowers.

We had a break at the only rest area along the route today with several caravaners. I'm always amazed how these simple interactions can lift my spirits and have a nice life-affirming effect on me. We rode back onto the Stuart highway, and almost instantly encountered a car-load of people that very clearly did not like the fact that we were on bicycles, as they gave us the universal finger gesture of displeasure. This was followed up a short time later by having what we strongly suspect was urine sprayed on us by a passing van of young tourists...!!

Otherwise the ride into Katherine was pleasant, even if the temperature in the sun was over 105f... We showered, had a sandwich and wandered off to catch a movie in air-conditioned comfort.

Day 46 Larrimah to Mataranka


Today we actually rode together... Andrew's 50 mile "record" ride took its toll on him, and my tortoise pace seemed quite adequate to him today!! Truth be told we are both a bit sore and in need of at least a day off. Not that we've been pushing ourselves so hard, but rather the cumulative effect of the trip is wearing on us.

It was a longer and hotter ride today, and we both agreed that we could live without seeing the famous hot springs. Riding into town we were relieved to see a grocery store and a small library with internet access. Checking into the Mataranka Hotel, Andrew quickly made friends with a crowd of indigenous locals outside the bar... he was quite popular! We had a bit to eat and then set out to do our shopping.

We were really amazed to find that with the exception of the pub and the gas station, the entire town was closed for business! The Katherine Show, formerly the Tennent Creek Show, has once again worked against us. Apparently everyone had gone to Katherine for their equivalent of a county fair... leaving us with very few options. However, we did manage to get some basic items at the gas station, and we only need to make it to Katherine (pop. 10,000+), so we're good.

Our ride to Katherine tomorrow will be the last day of the trip over 60 miles, and I'll be only too happy to put that one behind us!! The length of the trip is starting to have an effect on us as tourists, in that we are finding very few things eye-catching or interesting any more. Additionally, and more importantly, our sense of humor seems to be wearing thin... and small set backs are becoming harder to handle with a smile.

Day 45 Hi-way Roadhouse to Larrimah







Riding before dawn to beat the heat we had a great ride to Larrimah, complete with another tailwind!! Andrew did 50 miles in just under 3 hours, and on a loaded touring bike as well. He arrived in Larrimah around 10.30am, and I leasurely rolled in about 12.30pm... nothing to prove on my end!

The Larrimah Hotel is a really exotic place, and really fitting in the outback. It's almost straight out of a movie set, with its pink concrete walls, tin roof, and cages of exotic birds and snakes... including a Death Adder. As with most historic hotels the rooms are smaller than what we're used to today, and theres a communal toilet. In addition to this our ceiling fan wobbled so much that we were genuinely concerned that it'd come loose flying in our direction!

One of the glass leuvered windows in our room had no screen, and seemed to be the source of the occassional mosquito... Andrew became obsessed with the mosquitos, and was performing acrobatics to swat them with anything at hand! It was hilarious!!

We had a great (and I do mean GREAT) meal and a couple drinks with a few of the colorful locals and really drank in the atmosphere. Amazingly the mosquitos seemed to give up after dark, and we did manage to sleep soundly!

Day 44 Dunmarra to Daly Waters







Today was a perfect ride- a mere 30 miles long, downhill, and a tailwind!!! You live for days like that... the only flaw was that it wasn't a longer ride! We were on the road at 6.40am, about 20 minutes before dawn, and we rolled into the Hi-way Roadhouse at 9am... there was even still just a hint of chill in the air.

We sat down for a coffee on the porch, and struck up a conversation with a motorcyclist named Frank. He was riding a smaller BMW GS that obviously had some miles on it... he said that he'd been on the road for the last 8 years, and was now working his way back home to Papua New Guinea. He was a very interesting and amusing fellow, and we swapped stories about Central America and North Africa.

After sorting out our room arrangements Andrew and I made the 7km trip out to the historic Daly Waters pub. I'd been looking forward to this excursion for many weeks, as they are reputed to have great food as well as atmosphere... Sadly this was not to be. Upon arriving we were treated so poorly by the staff, that we simply turned around and left. Daly Waters seems to be a victim of its own success... with an overworked staff that no longer needs to focus on the customers. Its a good thing that I've had a few days to cool down before entering this post...enough said.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Day 43 Dunmarra

Really, just a nice restful day off... not much happened. Spent most of my time doing laundry, sleeping, reading, and blogging.

Day 42 Elliott to Dunmarra
















Our cabin was literally infested with mosquitos last night. It was so bad that both Andrew and I slept in our sleeping bags on top of the beds wearing our headneats!! We had to crank the AC in order to be able to sleep and to hopefully slow down the bugs... bear in mind the room was smaller than a fish house.

I woke up at 5am, and tossed and turned until my alarm went off at 5.45am. Inspite of this it took me forever to get on the road... I would pay for the delay later. As soon as the sun was up we got hit with a strong headwind... and slowed the pace to a crawl at 7-8mph!

Around 1pm I arrived at the Sir Charles Todd monument, commemorating the completion of the overland telegraph line. As I fumbled in my panniers, a couple from a caravan approached and an very delicately asked if I was "ok"...did I need "help"? Apparently I looked to be "in trouble" physically. I told them I was fine, and indeed I did feel fine. However, yet another couple approached and offered me a cold liter of water. I did drink the entire liter, and felt noticably improved... It was hotter than I thought!
I checked my thermometer and it was well on its way to 100f I confirmed this with the the caravaners Eileen and Ted, when they were showing me their fancy ride. Ted checked his gauges and it was 33C inside the caravan and 39C outside! A special thank you to both of the Tasmanians for their kindness and the lovely COLD water!

I sat in the shade of the monument and had can of pineapple slices, and I was off and riding again. At 2pm I was stopped by a pickup (ute) about 10km out of Dunmarra. The driver handed me an iced coffee sent out by Andrew- excellent!! Fueled with caffine I rolled into Dunmarra about 3pm to find that Andrew had secured a room for 2 days.... HE needed a day off, so I was quick to agree - If a 24-year old Iraq war vet needed a break, I'm sure I did too!!

We did the 64-miles today in about 6 hours, into the wind with temperatures reaching over 100f...not to bad all in all... and not as unpleasant as it sounds!

Day 41 Renner Springs to Elliott




We were riding by 7am, but we have to make it even earlier tomorrow. The sun wasn't over the horizon yet, but we could have been on the road by 6.30am in the pre-dawn light, I think. At any rate we did manage to beat most of the heat. Andrew arrived in Elliot around 11.30am, and I rolled in closer to 1pm.

I had expected to be camping, but to my surprise Andrew flagged me down outside the Midland Carvan park and told me had secured a room. Air conditioning is becoming more than just a luxury for this Minnesota boy... we are in the tropics for certain!

We have been warned to avoid the Midland Caravan park by both travelers and locals... hmmmm. Our "room" is another glorified fish house, but it does have a working aircon unit as well as a ceiling FULL of a wide variety of spiders... more of a concern to me is the constantly renewing stream of mosquitos that seem to appear from everywhere and nowhere at that same time!

At the Elliot Hotel/Pub we were told that they didn't serve meals until supper time, so instead we feasted on gas station hot dogs and fries with gravy... pretty good feed all things considered!
We were discussed taking a day off, but Elliott just isnt the spot for it. So we'll be riding again tomorrow. We haven't had a day off since Barrow Creek, but we seem to be doing fine.

We passed to seperate sets of touring "couples" this morning, but we didnt stop to chat to long... the heat had us all concerned. Still its good to get a bit of "intell" on what the road ahead is like and so on. Further up the road I spotted a note from Dave, and it just made me smile.

As soon as the sun was setting, the heat broke. It cooled down nicely, and it was actually comfortable when Andrew and I walked back to the Pub for a meal. The food was excellent, and I celebrated my 45th birthday with a couple of beers, all the while browsing the photos on the bulletin board. It seems that Elliott has quite the civic pride, having hosted a "mardi gras" party with a gay and lesbian them... featuring the entire town in drag and/or various fetish costumes. It was absolutely BRILLIANT, and I'm sorry I missed THAT party!!!

The atmosphere at the Elliot Hotel Pub is one of the highlights of my trip. It encapsulated the outback spirit completely, and had a cast of characters to match! Do not miss out on an evening in this place if you are in the area and you can avoid it!!

Day 40 Banka Banka to Renner Springs

We were up before 6am today and on the road early. We were sent off with the well-wishes of many cavarners due in equal parts, no doubt, to the fact that our tents were set up along the path to the toilets, and the time of day. Andrew and I rolled into Renner Springs around 11am, and had a nice relaxing day in an air-conditioned room... it felt good to finish early in the day for a change!

Renner Springs is quite a surprise compared to many of the places we've stayed. It is clean and well-kept up with a friendly and energetic staff. The manager, Lyle, was out powerwashing the patio when we arrived. He quickly sorted out a room for us, as the one we'd been given had only one queen-size bed... and frankly I think Andrew was “concerned”! Lyle of course picked up on this right away, and in typical Aussie fashion took the joke and ran with it... it was hilarious!

As with most outback roadhouses, Renner Springs has an international flavor to it. There are students from all over the world working in various capacities. I was explained to me that you need to work 3 months either in the outback or in an agricultural job like picking fruit if you want to extend your visa for another year... most students seem to opt for the outback instead of manual farm labor- Shocking.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Day 39 3-ways Roadhouse to Banka Banka Homestead







As with most of our calculated distances, today's ride of 40 miles was actually 50. It was also significantly hotter today and it took a toll on me. Because it was not humid, I didn't really feel the heat and as result probably didn't drink enough water. I won't make that mistake again!

The terrain has changed a bit, with more pronounced hills. However, there is a pay off with these hills in the form of an actual "downhill" portion that allows you to recover a bit! We are dropping elevation steadily toward Darwin and the seacoast.

I had a nice lunch break around 1pm with some caravaners at the Attack Creek rest area. Attack Creek is where John Stuart's expedition was attacked by Aboriginees after they road into their territory without seeking permission from the locals. Of course I had to take a photo next to the cairn marking the spot.

Banka Banka is a working cattle station that also has a nice caravan park and a small shop that has a few basics, including cold beer. We had a campsite that actually had GRASS to set our tents on! This is another indication of the changing climate as we move toward the tropics...strange to see grass.

Our Banka Banka experience was tainted when "Steve" the man running the shop was extremely rude to Dave when he arrived near dark. Dave was intending only to buy some milk and ride on, but for whatever reason "Steve" assumed he was trying to camp without paying... it was an ugly little situation, and really unnecessary.

Dave did indeed ride on. His plan was to ride all night and then sleep a few hours before continuing on towards Katherine. He has a package to mail back to the states, and we found out that the "Show" in Tennent Creek is moving on to Katherine, and then to Darwin. So not wanting to find everything closed for business, he's riding hard. Personally, I'd have rather seen him lay over a couple days somewhere comfortable and let the show move on before he arrived. But to each their own, and Dave is up to the challange!

I must admit that the thought of riding the Stuart Highway at night sends shivers up my spine, so God speed Dave, and SAFE RIDING!!!

Day 38 Tennent Creek to 3-ways Roadhouse




Today was supposed to have been a rest day, but with the Tennent Creek Show (basically like a county fair in the USA) on right behind our campsite, and 98% of the town shut down as a result we had no reason to stay. Tennent Creek is pretty dismal place, and that was reflected in the people we met...

We did manage to send a package of "things we no longer need in the heat" to Jason in Melbourne. This was accomplished by Greyhound bus, as the post office was closed due to "the show". So with that little bit of business accomplished we packed our things and bid adieu to Tennent Creek... or at least Andrew and I did. Dave could not get a refund on his campsite, so he opted to stay.

We rode the 15 miles to 3-ways, and what a difference 15 miles makes!! We were greeted by friendly staff, had a nice shower and a meal, and a generally great evening talking with truckkies and fellow travelers. As we've trimmed tomorrows ride by 15 miles, we're gonna sleep in a bit in the morning!

Day 37 Wycliff Well to Tennent Creek




We put on an 86 mile day today, but with a tail wind so it was long but not so painful! The morning started out cold and overcast, but it cleared up and warmed up right after we left the Devil's Marbles.

We had a discussion last night, and both Dave and Andrew are considering riding ahead. Andrew might want a couple extra days at the end to do some things, and Dave has a couple side trips he wants to do on the way up to Darwin.

I noticed tonight as I tried to find the Spot Tracket to send an "all is ok" message, that it is missing!! I see that someone has pressed the "ok" button in Elliot, Australia (150+ miles up the Stuart Highway). So thank you whoever you are for stealing an emergency locator from unsupported bicycle tourists out in the desert...

Well I guess we are just going to have to stay alert and healthy.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Day 36 Barrow Creek to Wycliff Well











We were up early... but waited a bit to see what the weather would do. After some discussion we decided that we should make a go of it. We packed up, and said goodbye to Michael and Dan. They are fantastic guys, and along with Helen they really made us feel welcome. Thanks so much guys for everything!!

The weather kept threatening to turn ugly, as it was overcast and occasionally it sprinkled. However the rain didn't materialize. The rivers and creeks were flowing from the previous days of rain, and there was flooding over the road in several places.
We spoke with a highway patrol officer who was escorting the new power generator from Darwin to Alice Springs, and I managed to get a picture of this feat. There were two semi trucks pulling and on pushing... and they weren't travelling much faster than we were!
We made good time to Wycliff Well and we were all set to ride on to Wauchope (pronounced: "walk up"), but on a whim I called ahead to see if there were any rooms available. There were no rooms, and as we were not keen to spend the night in a cold wet tent we opted to stay in Wycliff.

However, with the Tennent Creek Show (whatever the hell that is) coming up this weekend, we find that there also no rooms to be had ahead there either... its a tent tomorrow, like it or not!

Day 35 Barrow Creek







As luck would have it, a woman called and canceled her room right as we were about to head out to our tents... The hotel was just about to close, and Helen was quick to offer us the room (free!) - WHAT A SWEETHEART!!! So Andrew and I took the room, and Dave, who'd set his tent up in an as yet unfinished room in the new annex - went out to his tent.

We slept warm and toasty in this ancient outback hotel, and i was up as soon as I heard people stirring because I wanted to reserve the room for another night because it is STILL RAINING hard!! I made coffee and we all sat around the fireplace listening to stories from Lutzi and Vern, the roadtrain trucker. Lutzi and Vern were supposed to have left Barrow Creek at first light, but Vern's little dog had apparently flicked on a light switch during the night and the truck had a flat battery!

Vern asked if any of us knew how to splice a rope so that he could mount his "road train" sign on the last tanker trailer on his rig. I channeled the boyscout in me and set to the task. Later Vern brought out some older trucking magazines that featured articles about him, his Mac truck, and their outback adventures.

There is almost no traffic on the Stuart highway today and the Hotel is quiet. Many sections of the Stuart have overland flooding and have been closed... Vern discovered that in addition to his flat battery, he also has a badly leaking radiator. He showed us an "old bushman's trick" and fixed the leak by pouring a large amount of black pepper into the radiator... amazingly this really worked!! So with the truck now running and the roads open to the north to road trains, Vern and Lutzi said good bye and were off.

After another of Helen's amazing cheeseburgers, we stoked the fire and and struck up a conversation with a bush mechanic. We talked old engines and favorite classic cars until the generator quit about 1.30pm. In a scene right out of my Guatemalan childhood circa 1972 - the bartender, and aboriginal cattle station worker, one of the bar regulars, and a drifter with a wooden leg (wearing shorts) are all clustered around the diesel generator smoking cigarettes and working on the problem.

Apparently a filter housing has cracked and the leaking fuel has stalled the engine. I've working some spare epoxy putty I had in my panniers to seal the crack, while the others are trying to swap out the broken part with another less-than- compatible filter from similar non-functioning generator. Amazingly the lights come back on at 2.45pm.

I've got my tent drying in one of the unfinished rooms. Andrew's tent was full of water, and he has his things drying near the heater in our room. Dave's tent is literally surrounded by water but as it is elevated and under a roof he's dry... as is my bike right next to him. We've just been informed that the Barrow Creek is actually flowing for the first time in quite a while... but its raining and not worth a look as a result.

So we sit biding our time: Andrew is reading, Dave is taking photos, and I'm writing in the back "dining room". The comforting sound of the generator reduces the conversations in the bar area to an unintelligible murmur with outbursts of laughter from time to time... and it is STILL raining.

Day 34 Barrow Creek

I actually slept all the way through until 8am this morning! I'm sitting outside the Hotel speaking with travelers and trying to find out if any of them have seen Dave on the road. A family has just told me that they spent the night at the Central Mount Stuart rest area near a cyclist last night... could be Dave. That would put him about 70 km south of us...

There is a nearly constant stream of travelers stopping at Barrow Creek. Tour buses, caravaners, road train truckers, etc. Its quite entertaining to just sit and watch them... after a while you can predict their actions by their facial expressions and postures; this one to the toilets, another for a desperately needed cigarette, still others either bored or themselves boring and just standing around like sheep. All the while there is the quiet presence of the local Aboriginals who seem to alternately blend into the scenery or spring to life when a tourist bus rolls in with potential customers.

Dave finally rolled in about 3pm, much to my great relief! He was a bit flustered, having had to fix a flat only 1/2 a kilometer out. He said the he'd basically been having a leisurely time catching up to us. He did say that he'd gotten the notes - cool!

The weather has turned cold and over cast with light sprinkles of rain. I bought enough water to make it to either Wycliff Well or Wauchope tomorrow. We've discussed stopping at Wycliff Well 90 km out if the weather or riding is bad, but I suspect that we'll end up riding all the way to Wauchope.

Its 11pm, we are sitting at the bar... but not drinking. It is POURING RAIN outside!!! We are speaking with a German cyclist named Lutzi who has just arrived from Alice Springs in a roadtrain. She has been on the road over a year, having cycled in India, China, Uzbekistan, and numerous other exotic locations.

The rain continues and we are resigned to a VERY wet night out in the tents.

Day 33 Ti Tree to Barrow Creek


Today was actually supposed to be our day off, but with good weather and somewhat favorable winds we decided to push ahead to Barrow Creek. There was no sign of Dave when we left this morning so I left a note for him with the roadhouse figuring he'd stop for a snack or to see if we were there. We made reasonable progress and at a rest area I spoke with a guy driving south and he readily agreed to ferry a note directly to Dave down the road.

The note read that we were heading to Barrow Creek, and we would take the following day of so he could catch up. If he was in trouble he should send a not back up to us with a caravaner to Barrow Creek and we'd wait for longer for him or make arrangements to help him.

I arrived at Barrow Creek at 4pm and found that there were no rooms available, so I pitched my tent next to Andrew's. I learned from Helen, that it turns out that the hotel only has three rooms and they were all booked by contractors who were on site to work on the new annex of rooms -irony! I had a shower, and then Helen cooked us the THE BEST cheeseburgers we've had in Australia!! They were AMAZING!!

We spent the evening sitting outside and having a beer with Helen and Michael Romeo the bar manager. We got the full story on Barrow Creek as well as their own stories, it was a great time! The weather was relatively warm with a nice breeze... later it was a perfect camping night and I drifted off to sleep immediately.

Day 32 Aileron to Ti Tree



It was COLD last night, and I was woken up early be a group of asshole motorcyclists that parked their bikes next to our tents (literally) and then revved hell out of them to warm them up in the cold pre-dawn morning.... the phrase "loud and proud" should be replaced with "juvenile and socially retarded". At this point the roadhouse turned on its outdoor radio speakers, and began blasting classic Aussie country music - not really an ideal situation to fall back asleep, so I simply got up.

I'm sitting in the roadhouse having a coffee (a real cup, not the traditional Aussie Nescafe instant!), and waiting for it to warm up outside... its a balmy 40 degrees f. Its a mere 42 miles to Ti Tree, so I can afford to sit around for a bit.

Its now 8pm and I'm sitting in my room at Ti Tree. I was grateful for the short ride today as we had strong side and headwinds. I spoke with a couple that had come from Alice Springs that morning at a rest area, and they had not seen Dave on the road...
I rolled into Ti Tree about 3pm, and while talking to Andrew's empty tent (I thought he was there!), I was surprised to see about a dozen peacocks come wandering by!! Very surreal.

Andrew and I took advantage of the early day and did a bit of laundry, and then had supper around 5.30pm... still no sign of Dave. Feeling a bit apprehensive, I called the Aileron roadhouse and Darrell said that a "push-biker" had been through about 4.30pm.

I had a nice chat with an older gentleman named Peter who is stuck in Ti Tree waiting for parts to arrive for his caravan. Peter is a permanent nomad and simply travels around Australia. He supports himself selling a natural line of bee products, and I bought a tube of something to help him out... and because he hooked me with the phrase "...and works on saddle sore"; clever man.

Its 8.30pm and no sign of Dave. Its pitch dark and I'm hoping he is camping somewhere behind us. We are planning to ride to Barrow Creek tomorrow and have a day off - if so we've just gained a day back on our schedule!