Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Safely Back Home

My jet lag is leaving me, as I managed to actually sleep all through the night last night... but part of me is still in Australia. There is also a nagging little voice in the back of my head that is reminding me that the Stuart Highway is still unridden... fall down 7 times, get up 8!

However, another attempt is at least a year away and there is a lot of living to do between now and then! I've decided that next time I'll probably not be riding it solo. I'm considering a group ride and possibly a support vehicle for the future. I've already convinced Dan to drive any support vehicle and he has generously agreed... of course I think his motivation may be due in no small part to his desire to watch us suffer!

Back home it's a beautiful summer day outside in Thief River Falls, with the high temperature today expected to be around 81 degrees (26C), with light winds. So, of course the only thing to do is go for a bike ride!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

They say bad luck comes in threes...

I've been recovering nicely in Melbourne under the gentle care of Jason, and Dan and Lisa(Leezr) Scarff. Where the antibiotics have left off, we've managed to pick up the slack with some Australian red wine, beer, and general good cheer- Very nice, thanks guys!!!

However, just as things are beginning to come around, I got another tough blow today. I've discovered that due to a mix up in payroll, I will not be receiving another paycheck until September... My god does THAT sting!
Apparently I was put into a 9-month salary distribution instead of the 12-month plan that I've been on for the past 12 years. Of course it could be worse, but the phrases "House Payment" and "Car Payment" now make me twitch involuntarily when I hear them!

As if to add a little salt into the wound, there was the notice from the school that the state had taken a balloon payment for my HEALTH INSURANCE out of my last paycheck to cover me during the months when I will not be receiving a paycheck- F***ing nice of the State of Minnesota to look after me so well!

On a more happy (or strange!) note, we watched the film "Wolf Creek" last night. Dan had given it to me as a gift when I first arrived, saying that it would "prepare me for my bike ride through the outback." Wolf Creek is the genuinely disturbing account of backpackers in the Outback that are attacked by an Aussie serial killer... just the thing I would have needed in order to sleep well in my tent alone in the desert. Ah Dan, you are a true comfort!

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Farewell Adelaide

Well, my condition is definately not improving. I'm heading back to Melbourne tomorrow on the Overland to spend a couple weeks with friends, and then it's the dreadful flight back to the states. The Stuart Highway will have to wait for another year. I'm basically being philosophical about this whole ordeal, but there are still a few fleeting moments when I want to throw a temper-tantrum!

Thanks to all of you for your kind words, and moral support!!!

Until next time...

Monday, June 16, 2008

No plan of attack ever survives contact with the enemy.

I've just returned from a visit to a local doctor at Globe Medical. The complete visit including my filled prescription was $57... Yeah, that's right America a $57 doctor AND pharmacy visit, no insurance necessary! What the hell have we allowed our medical system to become?!!!

So now the bad news... I've got bronchitis and possibly walking pneumonia. This means that I'm looking at 2-4 weeks of recovery time, even with the antibiotics. Given my available time and the fact of having lost a week already, my plan to cycle to Darwin is essential finished.

I have carefully considered my options, including perhaps just a partial ride to Alice. Considering the gravity of the traveling unsupported through this environment, I've decided that it just isn't worth it. I need to be at 100% physically in order to have the confidence to this alone.

So after all the training, planning, expense, etc., it only took some one's uncovered cough to throw my plans to wind. To say that I'm disappointed really doesn't cover it- but I suppose it is far better to have this happen now as opposed to becoming ill out in the middle of nowhere.

Tentatively my plan now is to finish out the week in Adelaide, then head back to Melbourne. Depending on how quickly I'm recovering I may do some small trips around the region before heading back to the States. I'm gonna play it by ear...

Saturday, June 14, 2008

...and today held so much promise.

I had a strange start to my day when as I left my room to go to the toilet I surprised a large, tattoo-covered kid rummaging through the contents of back pack that were spread out over the floor. He was clearly startled, and I eyed him up based on his reaction. I thought he might have simply spilled his pack... but it just felt wrong. He was gone when I returned from the toilet, so I went to have a cup of tea and breakfast. The communal cafeteria was empty save for a lone kid hammering away furiously at the keyboard to a laptop. As I went to sit down, there tucked against the wall was the back pack- sans large, illustrated thug of course. I turned the pack into the desk, described the kid an we located the pack's owner from the registry... a disabled student from Costa Rica. Crime is so classy.

After that things went fairly well. I was up, fed, and packed and out the door just before 7am.

I rode out into essentially empty streets in Adelaide, although they did fill quickly enough after that! My only setback initially was a very low back tire, which of course was remedied easily enough.


About 3km into the ride I had to pull over and give in to a full-on coughing, phlegm-spewing spasm... another followed in about 15 minutes. After that I thought I'd hit my stride and the coughing stopped... for a while. But after about 20km it came on again and with a vengeance... this time including a bit of blood, just for aesthetics.

I had to stop and have a serious gut-check moment with myself... and I didn't like what I was finding. Against my own better advice I pushed on. As I later learned my cyclo-computer was way off, probably reading MPH instead of km PH, but I was only averaging 10-12 km according to my computer. I suspected something was amiss, due to the good cadence and higher gears that I was trying to maintain. Over time, I just steadily slowed and worse yet began to cough more regularly, and with increasing ferocity.

At what my computer indicated as 30.28 km, I was done. I thought perhaps I'd "hit the wall" and needed to eat, especially since I'd been ill. I stopped at the Liberty Service station, and had a bit to eat and a coke. I felt measurably worse instead of better after eating!



The woman working the counter asked if I was alright, to which I simply replied "No." I went outside and sat in the sunlight (it was actually cold), and thought about my options with my knees drawn-up and my head in my hands. I must have been the most pathetic-looking creature in the region at that moment, as "Karla" the sheep dog came up unbidden and just put her head in my lap. I nearly broke down.



For the first time in my adult life I was unable to go on just on guts alone. It was an awful revelation for me, and I even hesitate to write it.

I made a few phone calls on my mobile, and then owned up to the fact that not only couldn't I go on, I couldn't ride back either! Well, I thought I'd just call a taxi, and have them deposit me back at the YHA- WRONG. First off, I couldn't ring them on my mobile phone, and then had to ask the VERY kind counter women Janet, who of course turned out to be one of the owners no less, to help me find a taxi company. Then I had to ask her to show me how to use the phone- I must have looked like an imbecile! After an age of arguing on the phone, I learned that no taxi company would come out that far to get me!!! "That far" I protested on the phone, "Its only 30km!" I was told that it was 48km, but of course I knew better... in either case, no yellow cavalry was coming.

So I thought I'd rely on human kindness, and started to ask anyone stopping for gas for a lift. I offered to pay for their tank fill, and give them $50.00... no takers. I even went next door to the pub and offered $100... still not the slightest interest! Bin Laden would have had better luck securing a ride back to Adelaide!!

Two hours into my humble-pie eating world record attempt, I was still unable to find a ride. Janet had been joined at the counter by Nikki, and they were both becoming genuinely concerned- and you know that was very nice.



I took stock of things, considered trying to bicycle back, and then rang one of the taxi companies again. Through dogged persistance I managed to convince the dispatcher to send someone, and I didn't mind waiting. This turned out to be good, because I still had well over an hour to wait!

The cab ride itself was actually delightful. The cabby, whose name I will not even try to re-create out of respect, turned out to be an engineering grad student from India working on alternative energy solutions. He was fascinating, and speaking with him gave me another glimmer of hope for humanity!
I carefully checked the mileage on his odometer, and sure enough it was 48 km...

So, it's been a day of being WRONG.

I was initially WRONG about an obvious criminal. WRONG about the state of my health. WRONG about my abilities. VERY WRONG to assume that road train drivers would at least try to give you a bit of room, or alert you to their presence. But most of all, WRONG to assume that the day was a total loss! Once I got over my self pity, the other challenges were actually rewarding, and of course as always I met some very nice people!

Tomorrow I'm going to the doctor.

As for everything else, it can wait. It is such a privilege to be here, at this place, at this time, and in this form, that I'm actually a bit awe-struck.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Adelaide YHA June 14

Woke promptly at 5am this morning after another 12+ hours of sleep. I'm feeling significantly improved with the fever having broken during the night and only the cough remaining. My strength is a bit lacking, but I'm going to carefully pack up today and be ready to strike out tomorrow morning if I feel up to it...I NEED to put some miles behind me!
I'll be taking care of small details today, and of course resting a bit more as well.
I'm reminded of the quote "it is better to finish well than to begin well", so I'm hoping for something along those lines!

ADDENDUM
It's 4pm Adelaide time, and I'm basically ready to go. I've done laundry, packed, eaten, inter-netted (is that a word?!), etc. I spent a good chunk of this afternoon chatting with Jordan, one of the YHA staff members. He was keen to find out what he could about bicycle touring as he was planning to tour Europe this coming season. I was of course all too willing to tell him whatever I could (and probably much more than he wanted to know!) about touring. Anyway, he was delightful and a real morale booster for me since he got me excited about getting on the road! Thanks Mate!

So the plan is to be up at 6am, and on the road at 7am heading north toward Port Wakefield. Excellent.

ADDENDUM 2
I've just returned from a FANTASTIC meal at the "Indian Brasserie" located at 65 Gouger Street about 3 or 4 blocks from the YHA in China Town. Its well worth whatever you need to endure to get a meal there... Personally this was my 3rd attempt! On the first attempt they were in the process of "opening" for several hours... I gave up in hunger and frustration. On the second they were just flat-out closed for no apparent reason. The third time was a charm. I had elected to just pass on by simply out of spite. I paused for mere seconds to glance at the menu when the Host completely won me over with charm.
****Highly recommended, but not for those on a tight budget.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

The Overland from Melbourne to Adelaide


Loading up the bike at the trainstation... the blurry photo is accurate relative to how I was seeing everything!





At 5.30 am my alarm went off and I sat straight up in bed. I was actually relieved to have the alarm go off so I could quit pretending to sleep. I threw the piles of semi-sorted gear into my panniers, stashed those items that I wouldn't be taking in my duffle, and jumped into the shower.

The taxi was prompt, and I loaded in no time flat. The driver, a man of middle-eastern decent, thought I was crazy to be doing this trip... I seem to get that a lot here! At the train station he firmly shook my hand a wished me "good luck"- it was all very touching. It's surprising how a small gesture from a stranger can mean so much.

Initially I thought that it was just fatigue, but as the train pulled out of Melbourne, I began to feel genuinely terrible. Within an hour I had a full-on fever, head-ache, coughing, the works. I managed to sleep most of the 10 hours to Adelaide, being woken up every hour or so for a broadcast tourist announcement. I tried to take photos of the noteable stuff, but only the Murray brige photo turned out. I'm not certain why it is significant, but I think it has something to do with being big, or old, or made from matchsticks or something.

I've checked into the Adelaide YHA (youth hostel), and I'm going to hole-up here until Sunday in the hope that I will feel up to crossing the one low mountain pass of the journey..! I'm force-feeding liquids, vitamin C, and a little sushi, as well as sleeping for enormous stretches of time. I slept straight through from 6pm until 9am today, and that was after sleeping 10 hours on the train.

I went for a short walk to the central market to buy supplies, and found a fleece jacket on close-out for $7. It is surprisingly cold here, and I needed another layer. The market was excellent, with lots of fresh fruit, used books, and myrid exotic curiosities from around the world. They also had EXCELLENT coffee!

Well, I'm off for another nap. I will then start the task of figuring out how to actually get out of Adelaide and such.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Rest and Prep

Had a brilliant day in Melbourne today. I slept like a dead man, and woke to sunny skies. After an easy morning of coffee, coffee, and an excellent tuna sandwich it was off to buy a few last items and a train ticket to Adelaide. The ticket price including the excess fee for the bike was a mere $74AU and I was told that I didn't need to box my bike- Fantastic!! Tested the Spot Satellite Tracker in Jason's back yard and it worked brilliantly as well. I can only hope that I only need to use the "I am fine" button...

My train leaves at 8.05am on Thursday, so tomorrow is a free day in Melbourne. I'll be assembling the bike, packing, and generally faffing about.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Melbourne

Finally made into Melbourne this morning at 8.05am. I'll add more to this post after I get a good night's rest under me, but wanted to let everyone know that there are boots on the ground in Australia. Melbourne is 15 hours ahead of Minnesota time, so at 11pm here its 8am back home... been traveling for 48 hours, time to rest.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Airports and PA mind-control

I'm sitting at gate 120 in LAX, listening to the loudest airport p.a. system I've ever experienced. There is a women essentially screaming instructions in rapid-fire spanish directly overhead- I'm having flashbacks to Catholic school in Guatemala! Of course in Guatemala the screaming would stop when you complied with directions...

My flight boards in 2 hours at 8pm. I've been at the airport since noon, and I've got an 18-hour flight ahead me... I should have never stopped huffing paint! The LA weather is lovely, and I'm enjoying the sunshine after all the Minnesota rain. I've checked the weather forecast in south Austalia, and regardless of the temperature the all important wind seems to be shifting again to the south!!

Jason is still allegedly meeting me at the airport, and still seems to have a full itinerary ready to keep me from sleeping. I'm sure he mentioned 'wake boarding', but I'd have sworn he said 'water boarding'! Anyway, I can't wait to have boots on the ground in Oz!!!,

Airlines- and the collapse of western civilization

Its a looong story, but the short of it is that for some reason no one can explain to me, I was not allowed to board my flight out of Thief River Falls at 6am. Every other passenger in the terminal boarded...even though I checked in first, had all my affairs in order, etc.! So, I came back to the airport at 2.30, waited until 4, was delayed in Hibbing and again in Minneapolis. I missed my connection overseas at LAX by HOURS!

All day I tried to get a NWA supervisor to speak with me regarding this situation, with no luck. I literally ran my cell phone dead on hold with NWA "customer care". If I ever get the chance to meet the TRF/Bemidji supervisor, Roger Tuttle, I may just punch him in the face on general principle! The only people worth a damn at the entire Thief River Airport today were security: TSA, TRF PD (Yes, I mean you Seth!), and especially Les Johnston the TSA supervisor-Thank you Les for being not only damn good at your job, but for being a stand-up guy!!

With no overseas flight and an uncertain stand-by ticket to LA, I was at the point of despair. I asked the gate agent James M. if he could possibly help me... the man was AMAZING! He simply took command, made decisions, and even berated the Qantas "customer care" agent for being an idiot- got me an overseas flight and confirmed my flight to LA! I'm exhausted or I would sing this man's praises even more... perhaps I'll amend this later.



I took this snap on my camera phone, while James was saving the day! NWA sucks beyond belief- I literally had delt with more than a DOZEN other NWA people, all of whom could (or would) do NOTHING! This man deserves something beyond a mere promotion; he may actually be single-handedly running the entire airline for all I know! I should also note that at LAX Mr. Kamran Kaiser went above and beyond as well, helping several of us brain-dead travellers find a hotel even though the ticket area was clearly closed.

So, in a mere 24 hours I've made it to Los Angeles. However, on the bright side I do have all my luggage including the bike.
I also spoke with a shiney-new grad student on the shuttle bus. She will be doing an anthropological study on spirit guides in Papua New Guinea while living with the natives. She genuinely believes that she will subsist for 2 months collecting rain water! She will do this as method of avoiding dysentery from the regular water. I would LOVE to hear about this in 2 months time- honestly, I think they might just eat her on general principle!

Thursday, June 5, 2008

...And away we go!

Its about 9:30pm on Thursday night. I'm packed, and everything is loaded into the cruiser. I fly out at 6am from the Thief River Airport. I've got a couple-hour layover in Minneapolis, and then TEN HOURS at LAX before I fly out after 11pm! Its a 14-hour flight to Melbourne, so I'm looking at about 33 hours in transit. Skippy (Jason Scheepers) has already informed me that he will NOT be letting me sleep until dark the day I arrive (allegedly to help me beat jet lag, but I have my doubts!), so I'm in for a study in sleep deprivation!

I took my boxed bike to the airport today and weighed in on their scale, then went home and loaded it to capacity with stuff. The rest is going into one duffel and a small carry-on. I was informed that we are now allowed only one bag on the flight, and that I will have the privelage of paying extra for both the bike and its extra weight... If I could get to Australia in a timely manner any other way I would NEVER fly again.

I had a good scare last night when I was switching out my old Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires for the new ones I've been sitting on for months... Schwalbe had sent me the wrong size! The box said 35C the tires were 32C or smaller. Fortunately, I happen to still have a Christmas gift from my folks from two years back in the form of two Schwalbe Marathon XR HS s in the right size! So I'll be rolling a bit slower, but the toughness is there.

"Get to bed Nels"

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Final Tune Up and the Mindset of Mastery

I spent yesterday evening in Grand Forks with Dave Sears getting a final tune-up and some modifications on the bike. Dave is a consummate professional, and while watching him work I became aware of one of the traits that I've noticed about true craftsmen over the years- the way in which they control the tempo of the activity that they are engaged in.

I first noticed this phenomenon as a kid, watching my cousin Denny evaluating a rifle. To the casual observer he was simply turning the weapon over in his hands a few times. But I became keenly aware of his level of absorption and focus. His casual conversation would continue during the evaluation, but he seemed to me to be on "auto-pilot". The tone of his voice would change subtly, his responses to questions would be a little too offhanded, and time just seemed slow down around in the room until his examination was complete.

There is a similar sense of calm, easy purpose, and an economy of motion when Dave is working on a bike that can only come from years of working through the trials and frustrations of any specialized activity. The result of this diligence, coupled with pride in one's work and a genuine love of the activity, is the "mindset of mastery". This mindset seems to cross all genres and activities, and it is the reward for learning to temper oneself... I have a LOT to learn in this area!

In addition to a comprehensive tune-up, Dave removed my failing STI shifters and installed Dura-Ace bar-end shifters and of course new brake levers (Tektro's). On his advice, today I'm replacing my rear cassette and putting on a new Sram chain. Of course then I have to put the bike through it's paces and get a feel for the new systems.

For me, having work done by a profession of Dave's caliber truly enhances my enjoyment of bicycling. First of all there is the HUGE increase in confidence that I have just knowing that nothing has been over-looked or done in a half-assed manner. Then of course there is the "feel" of having your finely-tuned machine run at it's optimum level. And finally, it's just fun being around people who genuinely enjoy what they do, and do it at the highest levels. THANK YOU DAVE, I wish you were coming along on this ride!!!

Friday, May 30, 2008

Final Equipment Tally





These photos show the complete and final set of equipment and supplies that I'll be traveling with, with the exception of my two water bottles that will be kept in their cages on the bike itself.

I've managed to streamline the kit as much as I dare. In the process I've shed several pounds from the load by omitting bags and containers that accompany many items like sleeping bags, Leatherman tools, etc. Also, I've replaced numerous items with lighter weight substitutes wherever possible.

Final Weights including the weight of the panniers themselves.
Handlebar Bag: 3 lbs 7oz
Front Panniers: 14 lbs 11oz
Rear Panniers: 16 lbs 2oz
Seat Wedge: 1 lb 15oz
Rear Add-on bags: 2 lbs 2oz
Dry Bag: 15 lbs 3oz

Empty weight of panniers: 13lbs 1oz
Total equipment weight: 40lbs 7oz
*Total carry weight: 53lbs 8oz

*Not listed is the varying weight of the water needed at different times of the trip.

As I mentioned I believe that I've eliminated everything I can... what I will find interesting is just how much more will find it's way into bins at rest areas as it becomes obviously unnecessary!

Test Ride

The Memorial Day weekend saw some pre-trip testing and a little fun. I always make it a point to test all my equipment prior to a trip and the fact that two of my former students, Jerica Olson and David Johnson, were planning a motorcycle trip to the west coast and needed to test equipment as well was all the excuse I needed for an overnight campout. The three of rode our motorcycles to Lake Bronson state park and there we put our kit through it's paces.




Breakfast- but no cold cereal for David!




Jerica giving the universal sign for "Good morning! Why yes, I did sleep very well on the cold, hard ground in that f***ing tent!"


As usual, there were some glitches that emerged during the equipment tests, including David discovering that a 40-degree "comfort" rating on a sleeping bag is really just two lies strung together! Jerica realized that white pants and the woods simply don't do well together. And for myself, I learned that encircling a Coleman Expedition stove with a wind screen is a great way to melt ALL the knobs off it and effectively render it useless... Furthermore, I was alerted to the fact that my MSR XGK stove desperately needed a little maintenance. The gaskets were badly worn in the pump and while under pressure the valve shot fuel everywhere- always exciting!

Of course the biggest lesson is simply re-enforcing the idea that a person should ALWAYS test their equipment BEFORE setting out on the road.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

...And it snows!


Again with the snow today... unbelievable!
So its back on the trainer in the basement for today. Fortunately it doesn't sound like the snow will stick around with the temperature expected to reach 48f by late afternoon. I'm morbidly curious about what type of weird weather anomalies I might encounter in Australia on the trip...!

Monday, April 28, 2008

Maps

Until recently I've been planning this trip as best I could using the internet and a country map of Australia that I purchased on a previous trip to the continent. The map was enough to get me started, but not enough to adequately prepare for an unsupported bicycle tour. My original map lacked any indication of rest stops, and other such bicycle-important items. However, I eventually found an excellent source for maps, the Royal Automobile Association of Australia:

http://www.raa.net/shop_products.asp?SecID=56&CatID=4

These maps are a great resource for the touring cyclist, including accurate distance markings, rest stops, road houses, Railway sidings, etc. For this particular trip I ordered the South Australia and Northern Territories State Road Maps, as well as the Outback South Australia map.

You can contact the RAA directly by writing to them at:
Automobile Association of the Northern Territory Inc.
GPO Box 2584
Darwin NT 0801
Australia

Saturday, April 26, 2008

It Snows...

I've had another minor training setback today that came in the form of about 8 inches of SNOW last night...And so it snows, aaand it snows. As such I again find myself riding my trainer in the basement at the end of April--amazing!



More of a concern is that I'm also experiencing some pain and instability in my left knee. This has me somewhat worried. I'm guessing that there is stress on the knee due to poor spinal alignment or poor hip alignment and that a chiropractic adjustment or two will set things right. I'll be making an appointment to see Doc Walton this coming week.

My countdown timer indicates only 40 days until I leave for Melbourne, and the closer the departure date looms the more I find myself fretting about even the smallest things. It will be a great relief to have the first day of peddling behind me.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

The New Wheels!!

Of course the sex-appeal of these photos is probably lost on all but the biggest bike geeks, but I had stars in my eyes when Dave Sears (Ski and Bike Shop, Grand Forks, ND) unveiled them for me!!




I'll be putting them through their paces this coming week, and I can hardly wait!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Spring Training

Well the snow has been gone all of two weeks in northern Minnesota... or at least mostly gone. I'm currently putting about 100-150 miles a week out on the road, in any weather. This past Tuesday was a treat with constant 30mph winds gusting to 40mph!! Fortunately the typical winds are between 12 and 20mph and a bit more bearable, if generally irritating.

I'll be doubling my mileage within the next two to three weeks, ultimately ending each week with a century ride by the time I leave for Australia. I have not yet began riding with panniers, but that too is coming in the next couple of weeks as soon as I get all my gear sorted and packed in it's more or less final "trip" form.

I'm told that my new wheels will be ready this weekend at the Ski and Bike shop in Grand Forks, ND and I can't wait to get miles on those Phil Wood hubs! Dave Sears has generously come out of "semi-retirement," imposed upon him by his grad school commitments, and built the wheels for me. Pat is rehabing a his post-surgery collarbone after his winterbiking crash, and so wheel-building would have been a new form of torture for him! I'm also having a Phil Wood bottom bracket installed, and I've decided that the bar-end shifters are going on as well.

My big concern is just basically staying healthy. Everyone in TRF seems to be getting the annual transitional season colds, flus and such. I really can't afford to get sick at this stage of training. So it's early to bed, super healthy eating, and enough vitamins and suppliments to kill a charging rhino...and of course no "fun" at all. God, do I LOVE training!!!

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Minnesota Biking






The temperature this morning was better than -20f and with a windchill of -47f ...Clear roads and spring temperatures seem a thousand years away today, but at least its sunny. I'm guessing that when I'm nearing the equator in Australia and it's 90+ degrees in shade that these chilly conditions will seem much more appealing!

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Seeing Daylight

On a whim I decided to check on the sunrise-sunset times in Australia... and I realized that I'd forgotten to take into account that it will be WINTER in Australia and this of course means fewer hours of daylight! I was very unpleasantly surprised to realize that the sun will be setting between 5:10 pm and at the latest 6:30pm. Ultimately this means that I may have as little as 10 hours of daylight for riding. So I'm planning for a few more possible "bush camps" between towns on some of the longer stretches of 90-110 miles just in case I run out of daylight. I am very leary of riding on the Stuart Highway in the dark, and I've decided that unless there is an emergency I will not ride after dusk. Also, it'll probably be nice to have some light both to set up camp and cook supper by. So I'm tentatively planning to be done riding by 4pm in the south and 5pm after Alice Springs.

I pulled the following information off of time and date.com:
Sunrise/Sunset Information Australia 2008

June 08 Adelaide
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time

Jun 9, 2008 7:19 AM 5:11 PM 9h 51m 36s
Jun 10, 2008 7:19 AM 5:11 PM 9h 51m 04s
Jun 11, 2008 7:20 AM 5:10 PM 9h 50m 35s
Jun 12, 2008 7:20 AM 5:10 PM 9h 50m 09s
Jun 13, 2008 7:21 AM 5:11 PM 9h 49m 46s
Jun 14, 2008 7:21 AM 5:11 PM 9h 49m 25s
Jun 15, 2008 7:21 AM 5:11 PM 9h 49m 07s
Jun 16, 2008 7:22 AM 5:11 PM 9h 48m 52s
Jun 17, 2008 7:22 AM 5:11 PM 9h 48m 39s
Jun 18, 2008 7:22 AM 5:11 PM 9h 48m 30s
Jun 19, 2008 7:23 AM 5:11 PM 9h 48m 23s
Jun 20, 2008 7:23 AM 5:11 PM 9h 48m 19s
Jun 21, 2008 7:23 AM 5:12 PM 9h 48m 18s
Jun 22, 2008 7:23 AM 5:12 PM 9h 48m 20s
Jun 23, 2008 7:24 AM 5:12 PM 9h 48m 24s
Jun 24, 2008 7:24 AM 5:12 PM 9h 48m 32s
Jun 25, 2008 7:24 AM 5:13 PM 9h 48m 42s
Jun 26, 2008 7:24 AM 5:13 PM 9h 48m 55s

June 08 Alice Springs
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time

Jun 17, 2008 7:15 AM 5:56 PM 10h 40m 35s
Jun 18, 2008 7:15 AM 5:56 PM 10h 40m 29s
Jun 19, 2008 7:16 AM 5:56 PM 10h 40m 25s
Jun 20, 2008 7:16 AM 5:56 PM 10h 40m 22s
Jun 21, 2008 7:16 AM 5:56 PM 10h 40m 22s
Jun 22, 2008 7:16 AM 5:57 PM 10h 40m 23s
Jun 23, 2008 7:17 AM 5:57 PM 10h 40m 26s
Jun 24, 2008 7:17 AM 5:57 PM 10h 40m 30s
Jun 25, 2008 7:17 AM 5:57 PM 10h 40m 36s
Jun 26, 2008 7:17 AM 5:58 PM 10h 40m 44s
Jun 27, 2008 7:17 AM 5:58 PM 10h 40m 54s
Jun 28, 2008 7:17 AM 5:58 PM 10h 41m 05s
Jun 29, 2008 7:17 AM 5:59 PM 10h 41m 18s
Jun 30, 2008 7:17 AM 5:59 PM 10h 41m 33s

July 08 Darwin
Date Sunrise Sunset This day Difference Time

Jul 1, 2008 7:09 AM 6:33 PM 11h 24m 34s
Jul 2, 2008 7:09 AM 6:34 PM 11h 24m 42s
Jul 3, 2008 7:09 AM 6:34 PM 11h 24m 51s
Jul 4, 2008 7:09 AM 6:34 PM 11h 25m 01s
Jul 5, 2008 7:09 AM 6:34 PM 11h 25m 12s
Jul 6, 2008 7:09 AM 6:35 PM 11h 25m 24s
Jul 7, 2008 7:09 AM 6:35 PM 11h 25m 37s
Jul 8, 2008 7:09 AM 6:35 PM 11h 25m 50s
Jul 9, 2008 7:09 AM 6:35 PM 11h 26m 04s
Jul 10, 2008 7:09 AM 6:36 PM 11h 26m 19s
Jul 11, 2008 7:09 AM 6:36 PM 11h 26m 35s
Jul 12, 2008 7:09 AM 6:36 PM 11h 26m 51s
Jul 13, 2008 7:09 AM 6:36 PM 11h 27m 08s
Jul 14, 2008 7:09 AM 6:37 PM 11h 27m 26s
Jul 15, 2008 7:09 AM 6:37 PM 11h 27m 44s

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Water Tanks along the Stuart Highway

I plucked this information off another page. I would give credit to the author, but their home link is damaged and I couldn't find the information. My apologies to the original writer(s)! Anyway, this could be some lifesaving information to future travellers. But as with most information of this type, use it as a reference but don't count on it, some tanks may be empty. Be sure to fill up those water bottles EVERY chance you get! I have added the mileage distance in parenthesis for those of us that no habla metric.

Port Augusta - Darwin Water tanks:
120km (74 miles)South of Pimba. At rest area where railway crosses road.
102km (63.5 miles)North of Port Augusta 3rd parking bay on left.
Pimba Roadhouse
42km (26 miles)North of Pimba. Parking bay on left.
Glendambo Roadhouse
83km (51.5 miles)North of Gendambo. Parking bay with emergency telephone.
160km (100 miles)North of Gendambo. Parking bay with emergency telephone
Coober Pedy
80 km (50 miles)North of Coober Pedy. Parking bay with emergency telephone
112km (70.5 miles)North of Coober Pedy. Parking bay with emergency telephone
Cadney Park Roadhouse
120km (74 miles)North of Marla. Tank in rest area.
SA/NT border. Tank in rest area.
Kulgera Roadhouse
Erldunda Roadhouse
35km (22 miles)North of Erldunda. Tank in rest area.
74km (46 miles)North of Erldunda. Tank in rest area by Finke river.
Stuarts Well Roadhouse
Alice Springs
Conners Well rest area. 93km (58 miles)north of Alice Springs.
Aileron Roadhouse
13km ( miles)north of Aileron. Tank in rest area.
Ti Tree Roadhouse
Barrow Creek Roadhouse. Very salty well water, ask at bar for drinking water. Wycliff Well roadhouse
Wauchope roadhouse. Fillup here if camping at Devils Marbles, a great place to camp but no water.
90km (56 miles)South of Tennant Creek. Tank at Bonney Well rest area.
30km (19 miles)South of Tennant Creek. Tank in rest area.
Tennant Creek
72km (45 miles)North of Tennant Creek. Tank in rest area.
Renner Springs roadhouse
Elliot
25km (15.5 miles)North of Elliot. Tank in rest area.
Dunmarra
29km (18 miles)North of Dunmarra. Tank in rest area.
Daly Waters Junction
Larrimah
40km (25 miles)North of Larrimah. Tank in rest area.
Mataranka
58km (36 miles)North of Mataranka. Tank in rest area.
Katherine
42km (26 miles)North of Katherine. Tank in rest area.
This is last tank before Darwin but lots of small towns or stores where you can get water.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Sexy New Equipment!

I believe that most touring cyclists are at the very least "closet" gear fanatics, and some, like me, are openly obsessed with their traveling gear. I am always on the lookout for the next piece of equipment that will act in either a multi-function or an innovative capacity. A multi-function piece should replace two or more pieces of my current gear thus reducing the total weight of my equipment. An innovative piece of gear is generally something new (or something old-school re-discovered!) that makes life on the road easier or more pleasant.

One this trip I'll be “tour-testing” several recent purchases. However, I always test these items on shorter local trips first to make sure I’m not left high and dry by some worthless piece of crap. I also make it a point to look beyond the cycling community for potential new items… touring cyclists seem to be a forgotten market outside of the immediate genre.

A Crank Brothers 19 multi-tool - http://www.crankbrothers.com/multi19.php is going to replace my Park tool multi-tool; not much of risk taken here. These are widely accepted as an outstanding tool. Mind you that there is nothing wrong with the Park tool, I simply needed a second tool for my mountain bike, and I thought I’d give Crank brothers a try. So I’ve relegated the park tool to the seat wedge of my mountain bike.

For my mp3 player and mobile phone I’m trying the Sidewinder dynamo charger - http://www.modernoutpost.com/gear/details/is_sidewinder.php . This is an ultra light hand cranked charger that will charge most cell phones. I've continued using an outdated iRiver player because it uses standard AA batteries. The trouble with Ipods and their clones is that you must rely either a computer USB or an ac outlet to charge them. I found an Insignia mp3 player with an 8 gig capacity at Bestbuy that has an mini-usb charging port. This is compatible with the Sidewinder and also with a Sunlinq Solar Panel.

The Sunlinq Solar Panel - http://www.21st-century-goods.com/page/21st/PROD/GSE65 will not only charge personal electronics, but also rechargeable batteries, and will even act as a trickle charger on car, motorcycle, and marine batteries. At a mere 7 ounces for the Sunlinq and just over an ounce for the Sidewinder, I’m hoping these two items will increase my self-reliance without adding much weight to my overall kit.

I am most excited about my Luxurylite Cot - http://www.luxurylite.com/ . At only two pounds it actually weighs less than my Ortlieb self-inflating pad! While self-inflating pads are a mainstay of touring cyclists, I have never really slept well on one. To me the term “self-inflating pad” seems like two exaggerations strung together!

When I brought the Luxurylite cot camping with me last fall and I was THRILLED!! It kept me off the ground and it was extremely comfortable. My only concern is that if this thing fails in Australia, I am literally sleeping on the ground… However, when I contacted Luxurylite with my concerns, Bruce reminded me that all his items are unconditionally guaranteed. But to further allay my fears he also generously offered to sell me an additional factory 2nd cot cover at a huge discount, so I think I’ll be ok.

As I mentioned previously, I’m upgrading several of my components to alleviate the need for a number of tools and lubricants. These include:
Phil Wood tandem hubs -
Phil Wood bottom bracket with stainless steel spindle - http://www.philwood.com/
Chris King threadless headset - http://www.chrisking.com/



Finally, because I’m sick of piecing together rapidly disintegrating handlebar tape with electrical tape and duct tape, I’ve switched to Brooks leather handlebar Tape - http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/brookshandlebartape.html . It’s a bit expensive, but I hope that like their saddles it’ll prove just plain tough and reliable.

Friday, January 25, 2008

Itinerary and Camping/Lodging Info

The following is my itinerary along the Stuart Highway beginning in Adelaide and ending in Darwin or south to north if you will. I've included the information that I've gathered on camping areas and lodging both for the reader's edification and also in the event that I should somehow lose this information once I'm underway. I have not included any information on possible side trips, as I will detail these later.

I plan to update and add to this information along the way, including water stops and other bicycle-relevant information. Other travel blogs I've read seem to be a bit vague on the specifics and it is my hope this information will be of help to future bicycle travellers.



Services Key:
W=water C=camping S=shower L=laundry B=bed R=restaurant / bar K=kiosk

South Australia
Adelaide
Adelaide Beachfront Tourist Park (WCSLB): 08-8449-7726 fax 5877 349 Military Rd., Semaphore

YHA
Adelaide Central YHA
135 Waymouth St
Adelaide 5000
Phone: (08) 8414 3010
Fax: (08) 8414 3015
Manager: Anna
Email: adlcentral@yhasa.org.au

Clare
Clare Caravan Park (WCSLB): 08-8842-2724 fax 3447 Main north road

Geralka Rural Farm (WCSLB): 08-8045-8081 fax 8073 Clare and Spalding Rd.

Gladstone
Gladstone Caravan Park (WCSL): 08-8662-2522 fax 2131 Off main north road, west on
Terrace

Wilmington
Beautiful Valley Caravan Park (WCSLB): 08-8667-5197 4.5 km on Port Augusta Rd.
Wilmington Tourist Park (WCSLB): 08-8667-500 4km east of town square

Port Augusta
Port Augusta Caravan Park @ Stirling North: 08-8643-6357 fax 6357 9 Brook Street
Port Augusta Holiday Park 08-8642-2974 fax 6455 Corner of Hwy 1 and Stokes Terrace
Shoreline Caravan Park (WCSLBK): 08-8642-9265 Gardiner Ave

Woomera
Woomera Travelers Village (WCSLB): 08-8673-7800 fax 7700 Old Pimba Rd

Glendambo
Glendambo Tourist Centre (WCSLB): 08-8672-1035 fax 1039 Stuart Hwy

Coober Pedy
Coober Pedy Oasis Caravan Park (WCSLB): 08-8672-5169 Hutchinson Street
Cadney Homestead Park (WCSLBR): 08-8670-7994 Stuart Hwy
Stuart Ranch Caravan Park (WCSLBR): 08-8672-5179

Marla
Marla Travelers Rest Caravan Park (WCSLBR): 08-8670-7001 fax 7021 Stuart Hwy

Northern Territories

Kulgera
Kulgera Caravan Park (WCSL): 08-8956-0973 Stuart Hwy

Erldunda
Desert Oaks Caravan Park (WCSL): 08-8956-0984 Corner of Stuart and Lasseter
Northern Territories

Henbury Meteorite Craters Conservation Reserve (WC): 08-8951-8268

Stuart’s Well
Jim’s Place Caravan Park (WCSLB): 08-8956-0808 Stuart Hwy

Alice Springs
Stuart Highway Caravan Park: 08-8952-2547 Larapinta Dr.

YHA
Corner of Parsons Street and Leichhardt Terrace
Alice Springs, 0870 (08) 8952 8855

Ulara (Ayers Rock)YHA
Ayers Rock Resort
Ayers Rock, 0872 (08) 8957 7888 or 1300 139 889

Aileron:
Aileron Hotel and Roadhouse (WCSLB):

Ti-Tree
Ti-Tree Roadhouse: 08-8956-9741 Stuart Hwy

Barrow Creek
Barrow Creek Caravan Park: 088956-9753 Stuart Hwy

Devil’s Marbles
Devil’s Marbles Conservation Reserve: 08-8962-4599

Wauchope
Wauchope Hotel and Campground (WCSLBR): 08-8964-1963 8km S. Devil’s Marbles

Wycliff Well
Wycliff Well Holiday Park (WCSL): Stuart Hwy 27km S. of Devil’s Marbles

Tennent’s Creek
Outback Caravan Park (WCSLBK): 08-8962-2459 fax 1278 Peko Rd
Barkly Homestead Caravan Park (WCSLR): 08-8964-4549

Renner Springs
Renner Springs Dessert Inn (WSBR): 08-8964-4505 Stuart Hwy

Elliot
Halfway Caravan Park (WCSLB market): 08-8969-2082 Stuart Hwy
Midland Caravan Park (WCSLB): 08-8969-2075

Dunmarra
Dunmarra Wayside Inn & Motel (WBR): 08-8975-9922 Stuart Hwy

Daly Waters
Highway Inn Caravan Park (WCSLR): 08-8975-9925 Corner Stuart & Carpenteria Hwy

Larrimah
Green Park Tourist Complex (WCSL): 08-8975-9937 Stuart Highway
Larrimah Wayside Inn Caravan Park (WCSL): 08-89759931 fax: same

Mataranka
Mataranka Homestead Tourist Park (WCSLBR): 08-8975-4544 Homestead Road
Mataranka Shell Roadhouse Caravan Park (WCSLBR): 08-8975-4571 Roper Terrace
Territory Manor (WCSLBR): 08-8975-4516 Stuart Highway

Katherine
Heartbreak Hotel Caravan Park (WCSL): 08-8975-9928 corner of Carpentaria & Tablelands Highways-Cape Crawford

Pine Creek
Pine Creek Caravan Park (WCSLB mini-mart): 088976-1217 Moule street

Hayes Creek
Hayes Creek Wayside Inn & Caravan Park (?) 08-8978-2430 Stuart Highway

Adelaide River
Adelaide River Inn Caravan Park (WCSL) 08-8976-7047 fax 7181 War Memorial Drive

Noonamah
Noonamah Tavern (?) 08-8988-1054 Stuart Highway

Darwin
YHA
97 Mitchell Street
Darwin, 0800 (08) 8981 5385

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Musing, Planning, and Preparing

It is a bright, sunny, -20F morning in mid-January in northern Minnesota. I am sipping coffee from the comfort of my couch, and enjoying the quiet and calm inherent in an early Sunday morning. The dog is stretched out on the floor, the air is filled with the smell of freshly brewed coffee, and the only sound is that of a muted train whistle somewhere off in the distance.

Immersed in this comfort and security, a solo unsupported bicycle trip up the Stuart Highway through the "Red Center" of Australia seems like a fantastic idea! Just the sort of adventure that allows a person to daydream while pouring over maps full of strange places with exotic-sounding names. A looming departure date also helps to motivate a cyclist to get on the trainer in the basement and help pass the long winter months until the roads are clear and the weather is warm enough to get out and ride without fear of black ice or frost-bite...

I have already purchased my airline ticket (non-refundable), so I am fully committed to the trip. The plan is to fly into Melbourne, sleep off the jet-lag at my buddy Jason's, assemble the bike and catch a lift to Adelaide. From there I'll round out my supplies with some fresh food and water, dip my wheels in the Southern Ocean and begin peddling north (thats "Nort" to you Minnesotans) towards Darwin, Timor Sea, and the equator.

In all I'm looking at a linear distance of 2200 miles, and a minimum of 30 days on the road. However, I'm not on a tight schedule and I'm planning to take this trip at a slower pace to allow myself time to explore and to experience more of the local flavor along the way. I've found that it's too easy to get caught up in the daily mileage and see nothing but the shoulder of a road, and rest areas for a month.

For now I have begun the process of refining my equipment list. I've spread out all the gear on the basement floor, and I hope to end up with a "lean and mean" kit that weighs in at around 35 lbs. This will be a difficult task due to the variety of winter weather in Australia. Historically conditions range from 40-60F in the south with the real chance of rain around Adelaide; very dry with a daytime high around 68F around Alice Springs, but dipping to below freezing at night; then changing to highs in the 90's with high humidity the closer I get to Darwin. And of course this could all be out the window with global warming playing havoc with climate.

In an effort to minimize the tools I may need and thereby keep the weight down, I'm making some improvements to the components on my bike- a 2006 Bianchi Volpe. I've already replaced the stock headset with a Chris King No Threadset. Pat at Outdoor Adventures in Grand Forks, ND is building new wheels for me around a set of Phil Wood tandem hubs, and will be replacing my bottom bracket with a Phil Wood bracket with a stainless steel spindle and of course Wood's sealed cartridge bearings. Finally, I'm considering replacing the STI shift/brake combination for a straight up set of brakes and then adding Shimano bar-end shifters.

This last modification is the result of an experience last summer cycling from Mobile, AL to the Canadian Border. I met a retired couple, Jerry and Shirley Smith from Kansas, riding a tandem in Mississipi. Jerry pointed out that if my bike falls and the brake/shift lever is broken then I'm out luck on both accounts, and that finding a replacement part might be tough. I filed the suggestion away under "not too likely", only to have the bike tip over on rest break and nearly shatter the lever within a few days! Thanks Jerry, I'm listening now!

By making these modifications I can leave the cone wrenches, bottom bracket tools, and grease at home. Of course that type of security comes at a premium, and I had to spend nearly a thousand dollars along the way. On the other hand, I can transfer these high-end components from bike to bike for as long as I'm able to tour, and enjoy the peace of mind they offer for years to come... worth it to me.

I'll be posting my entire equipment list once it's finalized, along with an itinerary. Posting will be sporatic until I hit the ground in Australia, and then will be subject to internet availablity. However, I'll be posting my daily log even if its done in bulk, a week at a time.